Climbing - Environmental Impacts

Here's a good (potentially heated) discussion topic and one that's close to my heart.

I am a rock climber and as such, am constantly in a struggle against access to our most valuable resource...the rocks. The main issue (especially here in Ontario) is the environmental impacts caused by climbing. Does climbing cause a significant ecological impact? Does climbing impact the environment in a negative way? What do we as climbers need to do to secure access in our beloved climbing areas? How can we do more to protect the environment?

This topic is fresh in my mind after the Niagara Parks Commission released a draft version of their Environmental Lands Management Plan (here). You see, the Niagara Parks Commission is responsible for around 1700 hectares of land in the Niagara region. Recommendation 11 of this draft plan is to eliminate bouldering activities in the Niagara Glen. FYI, a petition has been started to voice our (climbers) concerns about a complete ban on our favorite past time (here). But, before you go sign the petition, at least know the arguments on both sides of the fence.

Before we head any further into this topic, you all need to know that I am biased in my opinions because gaining access to these wilderness areas benefits me greatly. I truly find joy in life through my outdoor activities and to have the opportunity taken away is a great blow in my little world.

Does climbing impact the natural environment? YES. It absolutely does. This is not the argument here, we are all aware (at least most of us) that climbing does in fact cause negative impacts to the cliff ecosystems. Climbing destroys cliff bottom ecosystems by causing heavy traffic in sheltered areas below any given climb. Climbing removes lichen from cliff faces in order to provide a clean climbing experience. Climbing has in the past (not so much anymore) removed trees on or at the bottom of cliffs to open new routing ground. Climbing introduces chalk to the environment causing the local environment to become basic and therefore, killing off vegetation in the landing zones of boulder problems.

Now lets look at the positive impacts of a sport like bouldering. It gets a user group of people off of the couch and outside to participate in a non-violent, non-competitive (for most participants), supportive outdoor activity. Climbing has the ability to bring awareness of environmental concerns and issues to a large number of people and all those who associate with this particular user group. I have yet to meet a climber who disregards the environment and destroys delicate ecosystems or habitat recklessly (certainly not purposefully). I think that the majority of climbers are more than aware of their individual impact on our natural world while participating in their chosen activity.

We now live in a world with far more climbers as the sport progresses. I began climbing around 12 years ago, when the sport was still relatively infant. We are approaching a time of childhood for the sport of rock climbing here in North America. This will bring on many new challenges with regards to access as more and more people flock to areas like Niagara Glen. More people using areas = more impact.

I once had a mentor that told me "80% of environmental impact (damage) is done by the first person to travel the path". I'm not too sure how much of this is truth and how much is fiction, but it does bring up the point that the damage has already been done in cases like Niagara Glen. I think that the approach is to mitigate further damage to surrounding ecosystems and to allow climbing in all currently established areas. There have actually been some studies on the impacts of rock climbing on the cliff Eco systems and the conclusions of such studies are that climbing significantly decreases the amount of bryophytes and lichens (up to 40% less) and 84% less vascular plant species. This is strong evidence that climbing does in fact negatively impact the cliff ecosystem. However, the study was undertaken on the Niagara Escarpment in the Halton Region near Toronto Ontario. The study broke down the cliff ecosystem into three main parts; upper plateau, middle cliff face, and talus slope below.

The major problems I can see with such a study is that all of the climbable surfaces on these particular cliff faces have already been climbed. The other cliff faces are not steep enough or contain too many fractures to consider them stable enough for climbing. One thing that most scientists don't take into consideration is the fact that only certain rocks are suitable for rock climbing. I would take a shot at estimating only 2% of rocks are actually good enough for a climber to even look at. I know this by combing the woods for hours and hours looking for new bouldering options (not too many out there by the way). The cliffs that are actually climbable are typically steeper, which contribute to more rock fall than cliffs with a lesser % grade. Therefore, is is logical that there will be less vegetation growing at the base of a steeper cliff face. Another huge consideration should be sun exposure. The sun can really cook a cliff face in the mid-day sun.

(Not related to the particular problem at the Glen) I do, however, agree that climbing has significantly impacted the cliff top ecosystems. Climbers (top-ropers mainly) approach the top of the cliffs to set up their ropes and usually use trees (cedars at that, which contain a soft bark that is easily damaged by abrasive behaviours such as that). Climbers on cliff tops also contribute to mechanical erosion of soils and destroy delicate vegetation that clings to life on the edge of the escarpment. I am a strong believer that top-roping is a bad habit that should no longer be practiced in today's world (I will get allot of shit for that one).

I believe that climbing should commence in these ecologically sensitive areas (such as Southern Ontario) on established climbs only. I think that top-roping should be banned from all cliff faces in the Niagara Escarpment. I think that climbers need to wake up a bit and realize that our activity does in fact cause some environmental impacts and mitigate these impacts by responsible behavior (we all know what that is). I think that closing areas to climbing is not at all the answer in this or any situation (closing areas to human activity goes against the purpose of these types of parks in the first place - Another post). I think we can overcome any problem if we can all come together and agree on a solution instead of pointing fingers and blaming other user groups for their impacts.

It is true that UNESCO classified the Niagara Escarpment as a World Biosphere Reserve, which does come with certain responsibilities from user groups of the escarpment. The Niagara Escarpment contains the oldest forest this side of the Rock Mountains, which is something to cherish and protect. The little (sometimes thousands of years old) ancient white cedars are an absolute wonder to see growing out of cracks in the rock with the most minimal of soil coverage. Absolutely amazing! As climbers we do have a duty to protect such amazing creations to ensure that they will continue to grow for thousands of more years to come.

One more thing I feel that I need to touch on is the common argument from climbers against access issues. One only has to look at some of the comments posted on the petition against the bouldering ban in the Glen. There are some very uneducated climbers out there that actually do not believe climbing has an impact on the environment. I can tell you from personal experience of visiting the Glen for around 8 years now, things have changed drastically. I can remember going for an entire Saturday without seeing another climber down there. That is simply impossible now. The lack of education or pure selfishness of some climbers is clearly evident in post such as the one on RC.com when the first study of Climbers impact on the environment was released (here).

I guess the moral of the story here is that climbing does effect the environment negatively, but the key to problems such as these is mitigation and not Prohibition. If we can come to a consensus and manage our impacts as a user group, everyone can go home happy (including mother nature).

I struggle with issues like this all the time because of my background and my moral standing as a human being on this earth. It is difficult for me to come to the conclusion that the one thing I adore the most in life (spending time out at the cliffs) could actually be causing environmental damage. Each and every one of us have a responsibility to shed lightly while participating in any outdoor activity. Keep this in mind next time you are out at the craigs and are going to toss your pad or bag down on those little bushes, they may not be there that long if we keep treating them that way. Keep this in mind next time you go to clean a new climb (is it really going to be that good of a route and is it really worth the consequences?).

Keep good ol mother nature in mind from now on.

Remember climb for fun, not for others.

R